#50Since our last "100" issue, Ellen von Unwerth has opened a studio in New York, and her fashion work, showcased in Vogue, has matured. Her well-received 1995 collection of fashion photos, Snaps, will soon be joined by a second book, which should give her fans a surprise: Titled Couples, it will feature new pictures of people and animals.Von Unwerth brings an energetic femininity to fashion photography--call it girl power. The models in her pictures seem to have real identities, and the photos often convey a sexuality without reducing the subjects to sex objects. Von Unwerth can relate to models because she used to be one. "People couldn't believe it when I took my first pictures because they think models are stupid," she says. "When I'm shooting, even if what I see is not so great, I keep taking pictures to make the model feel good and to give her self-esteem. I like the women to be strong, even if they're looking raunchy or are in a bordello; they always know what they're doing."The key is letting the models move. "When I was a model, most photographers liked to keep me in one position and I found that frustrating," explains von Unwerth. "So I give the people I shoot as much freedom as possible to be spontaneous." Hence, a favorite moment from a recent Vogue shoot in Mexico. "Naomi Campbell pricked her leg on a cactus, so she lifted her long dress really high in order to scratch it," von Unwerth says. "I snapped the picture and I think it's a very real moment, but I'm absolutely sure that vogue won't use that shot because her dress is wrinkled."--M.K. From May/June 1998 American Photo. "In just a few short years, this Bavarian-born ex-model has captured the attention of the fashion world. Ubiquitous, bold, and imaginative, her work features the faces and bodies of today's top models and celebrities, and gives her famous male counterparts, such as Helmut Newton and Peter Lindbergh, a run for their money. What makes a von Unwerth photo? Sex, fun, sex, daring, sex, theater, and yes, more sex." - Te Neues, publisher of Spezial Fotografie Portfolio #28)
Ellen von Unwerth's work offers a distinctly sexual and playful version of fashion and beauty photography. In addition to her career as fashion photographer, film-maker, and video director, her work has been collected in numerous books and two photo-novellas. Von Unwerth's first book, Snaps, was published in 1994 followed by Wicked (1998), and Couples (1999). Her photo-novella Revenge was published in 2003 accompanied by exhibitions in New York, Paris, Amsterdam, and Hamburg. Her photographs have been widely exhibited internationally including in Archaeology of Elegence (2001-2), and Fashioning Fiction exhibited at MoMA/Queens in 2004.After a decade as a fashion model, von Unwerth brought a first-hand knowledge of the kinetic energy of fashion photo shoots to the creation of her own photographs. Her sensual campaigns for Guess? in the early 1990s launched von Unwerth's commercial career, and subsequently she has created campaigns for Baccardi, Victoria's Secret, Banana Republic, Tommy Hilfiger, H&M, Diesel, Chanel, Miu Miu, Blumarine as well as a series of publicity advertisements for HBO's Sex and the City. Von Unwerth has also ventured into directing short films for Azzedine Alaïa and Katherine Hamnett, music videos for artists such as Duran Duran and commercials for Baccardi and Clinique.
Kenneth Bager: Fragment One
Nokko: I Will Catch You
Snaps: Ellen von Unwerthby Lynda StrettonIt's been eight years since Ellen, born in Germany, stopped posing for the camera and started taking picures herself. Since then her sexy, spontaneous approach has won the acclaim of models and photograpers everywhere. She has been compared with Helmut Newton. Many of her fans attended the launch of her new book - "Snaps" - a collection of her favourite pictures.Ellen Von Unwerth: "I enjoy photographing people. I try to make them feel comfortable and relaxed. It works - most of the time."Eva Herzigova Model: "Her pictures are sexy with a little sense of humour. It's not vulgar, it's always funny. It's always nice. She was a model before, so she knows what it's like to be in front of the camera."Karen Mulder Model: "She has a lot of fun. You have a good time and she takes pictures while you're having fun. Actually, she makes it very easy."Anna Wintour Editor-in-Chief, Vogue: "She has a much looser approach than the more standard photographers. And I think her wit and looseness is part of her charm."Ellen Von Unwerth: "It's good to shock. It's not good to always be careful. It's good to disturb a little."Ellen Von Unwerth has also shaken the sensibilities with her fashion videos and her short, sexy, farce "Inferno".Helen Christensen: "She brings out the side of a woman that only other women see. It's a funny side. All her photographs are beautiful."