Wondering what this place is all about? I'll show you mine if you show me yours. Wondering what the hells going on with America? Wondering if any of it really matters? If we really have anything to say? If you care? Just wondering?
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You, maybe.
They don't understand the sea, so they'll never get the spiritual side of it. You're not gonna start chanting or anything, are ya?! (laughs) l might! This is me. So, uh, you still haven't figured out what riding waves is all about, have you? It's a state of mind. It's that place where you lose yourself and find yourself. You don't know it yet, but you've got it....... Man, it jacks up. You drop down into the pit. It's twenty-five feet straight down... ..and your balls, man, your balls are about this big. And the whole thing's fuckin' roaring. Pushing you forward, like you're on a freight train or something. Yeah, and if you lose it, the fish'll be picking you out of the coral. Big-wave riding's for macho assholes with a death wish. No, it's not. It's the ultimate rush. There's nothing that comes close to it. Not even sex. Maybe that's cos you're not doing it right, Roach. Just paddling out in a big surf is total commitment. You can't just call time-out if you don't like the way things are going......... Come on, think about it. This was never about money for us. It was about us against the system. That system that kills the human spirit. We stand for something. To those dead souls inching along the freeways in their metal coffins,... ..we show them that the human spirit is still alive.
The longer I live, the more I realize the impact of attitude on life. Attitude, to me, is more important than facts. It is more important than the past, the education, the money, than circumstances, than failure, than successes, than what other people think or say or do. It is more important than appearance, giftedness or skill. It will make or break a company... a church... a home. The remarkable thing is we have a choice everyday regarding the attitude we will embrace for that day. We cannot change our past... we cannot change the fact that people will act in a certain way. We cannot change the inevitable. The only thing we can do is play on the one string we have, and that is our attitude. I am convinced that life is 10% what happens to me and 90% of how I react to it. And so it is with you... we are in charge of our Attitudes. (Charles Swindoll)