CAT DECLAWING. IS IT NECESSARY? The Truth About Declawing "Declawing is an inhumane, unnecessary procedure that has many alternatives. It is never in the cat's best interest. With declawing, we are interfering with a species' nature because of our own whims, mis-conceptions, misinformation, and sometimes, laziness." Neil Wolff, D.V.M. Dr. Nicholas Dodman, author of The cat Who Cried for Help, and director of the Animal Behavior Clinic at Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine has the following to say about the procedure: "Declawing fits the dictionary definition of mutilation to a tee. Words such as deform, disfigure, disjoint and dismember all apply to this surgery�in veterinary medicine, the clinical procedure serves as a model of severe pain for the testing of analgesic drugs." While declawing is a popular and lucrative practice in the United States, it is not practiced in European countries. It is, in fact, against the law, in many countries including England, Germany, and Switzerland. The Declawing Operation The standard declawing procedure calls for the removal of the claw, the cells at the base responsible for the growth, and part or all of the terminal bone of the toe. It is performed to make your cat unable to scratch furniture, people or other animals. Usually the claws on the front feet only are removed, but sometimes the digits are as well. It is actually an amputation comparable to the removal of the fingers of the human hand at the last knuckle. The cat experiences considerable pain in the recovery and healing process. What You Need To Know The cat's claw is not a toenail at the end of the toe as in other animals. It is movable digit attached to muscle as a finger might be. Note the strong ligaments and tendons which give power to extend and retract the claws. This is unique in cats. Without this your cat would not be able to properly grasp, hold or establish footing for proper walking, running, springing, climbing or stretching. Think of the cat as having 10 toes on each foot. When the end digit, including the claw is removed, the sensory and motor nerves are cut, damaged and destroyed. They do not repair themselves or grow back for many months. Following the surgery there is a wooden lack of feeling, then a tingling sensation during the long convalescence while the cat must walk on the stub end of the second digit. Remember that during all this time the cat may not "rest" his feet as we would after a similar operation but must continue to scratch in his litter box, walk and attempt to jump as usual regardless of his pain. How Declawing is Done There are several methods for performing the procedure, but the goal is the same: complete removal of the third phalanx (last bone in the toe) and the nail that grows from it. Some veterinarians now use laser surgery, which some think can lessen pain and post-operative bleeding. During laser surgery, a small, intense beam of light is used to cut through tissue by heating and vaporizing it, meaning there's less bleeding, less pain, and a shorter recovery time. Either way, your cat’s toes will be bandaged, and it may take a couple weeks for your cat to walk normally. Some cats bounce back very quickly, especially kittens. Another technique, known as a "tenectomy" (or tendonectomy), is becoming increasingly common. Rather than amputate the cat's claw, the surgeon removes a piece of the tendon that controls the cat's ability to flex and extend his claws. After surgery, the cat's claws are intact, but remain permanently extended. More than half of the cats who undergo this procedure can still use their claws to some extent, but cannot scratch normally. Because the cat can't sharpen his claws, the claws quickly become rough, grow excessively, and must then be trimmed on a regular basis. Alternatives There are some alternatives to declawing: 1.Buy or make a scratching post Make sure it is strong enough not to wobble and tall enough to accommodate a cat at full stretch. Sisal and corrugated cardboard make good scratching post surfaces. Avoid carpeting as it is easy to tear up and looks terrible once it is broken in. Also, the cat will have a hard time differentiating between "good" carpet to scratch (the post) and "bad" carpet to scratch (your living room rug) so you may create a new problem. Praise your cat when she uses the post. Make the post a fun place to be by placing toys on or around it, or rubbing it with catnip. Make sure to put it in an accessible area. If you’re trying to discourage the cat from scratching a particular piece of furniture, try placing the post in front of it, gradually moving the post aside as the cat begins to use it regularly. 2.Train your cat Encourage the cat to claw the right things, and discourage her from clawing the wrong things. Each time you bring the cat to the scratching post or she goes on her own, praise her, pet her and spend a minute playing at the post. If the cat begins to scratch where she isn’t supposed to, call her by name, firmly telling her "no," and move her to the scratching post. Put her front legs up on the post and make scratching motions with them. Dangle a toy in front of the post so as she goes for the toy she'll touch the post. Most likely, she'll enjoy the feeling and continue using it afterwards. You can also “use†the post so that your scent will be on it and entice your cat to mark the territory herself. 3.Trimming your cat’s claws Although it may seem like a daunting task at first, trimming your cat's claws regularly is an important part of maintaining your feline companion's hygiene. Keeping your cat's claws clipped will also minimize scratches that might be suffered by you - and your furniture. Their claws have to be clipped once a week so furniture destruction can be kept to a minimum. When clipping your cat's nails it is a good idea to use two people — one to hold your pet securely and the other to clip the nails. Never use regular scissors. Use only clippers made especially for cats and clip only the very tip of each claw. There are veins (sometimes visible as a pink area near the base of each claw) in your cat's claws that you should be 4.Nail Covers A few years ago an excellent product was introduced to reduce damage from furniture scratching humanely. “Soft Pawsâ€,, (or Soft Claws�) are plastic nail caps that can be super-glued to a cat’s claws following a preliminary nail trim. The results are often spectacular, with damage to furniture practically non-existent while the nail caps remain in place. The manufacturers recommend a complete replacement every month or so, but replacing lost nails individually as they fall off also works (and involves far less work).P.S. If you really love your cat, you will want her to lead a long, happy life, giving and receiving love and affection. If you really love her, and care about her, don't declaw her. Destructive scratching problems are 100% correctable. Providing the cat with suitable scratching targets to satisfy this instinctive behavior and encouraging appropriate behavior is generally all that is required.
Plants that will poison your cats Most of us are surrounded by plants. They add the needed finishing touches to any decor. However, a small percentage of these plants have the potential to cause harm of our cats and this beautiful plants could become a deadly enemy. Cats are generally sensible creatures - but nevertheless they can become victims of poisoning. Who is at risk? Most cats are fastidious creatures and are careful what they eat. Poisoning in cats is therefore generally rare. Young cats, and especially indoor cats are most at risk as they may chew houseplants through curiosity or boredom. When a cat is confined to a run or lives entirely indoors-hazardous plants should be removed from its environment. Cats given free access to the outside world tend to have other things to occupy their minds than sampling unfamiliar vegetation. But even free roaming adult cats may accidentally ingest needles or seeds that have become entangled in their coat during grooming. Many cats love to eat grass to aid their digestion. Indoor cats may crave some greenery and chew at houseplants. There are many plants that are poisonous to cats. They vary in their toxicity. Many are irritant rather than poisonous. Below is a list of houseplants that can be harmful or fatal depending on the quantity swallowed. Also, remember that cats that chew plants are exposed to any chemical pesticides or fertilizers that may have been applied directly to the plants or through the soil. Alfalfa Almond (Pits) Aloe Vera Alocasia Amaryllis Apple (seeds) Apple Leaf Croton Apricot (Pits) Arrowgrass Asparagus Fern Autumn Crocus Avacado (fruit and pit) Azalea Baby's Breath Baneberry Bayonet Beargrass Beech Belladonna Bird of Paradise Bittersweet Black-eyed Susan Black Locust Bleeding Heart Bloodroot Bluebonnet Box Boxwood Branching Ivy Buckeyes Buddist Pine Burning Bush Buttercup Cactus, Candelabra Caladium Calla Lily Castor Bean Ceriman Charming Dieffenbachia Cherry (pits, seeds & wilting leaves) Cherry, most wild varieties Cherry, ground Cherry, Laurel Chinaberry Chinese Evergreen Christmas Rose Chrysanthemum Cineria Clematis Cordatum Coriaria Cornflower Corn Plant Cornstalk Plant Croton Corydalis Crocus, Autumn Crown of Thorns Cuban Laurel Cutleaf Philodendron Cycads Cyclamen Daffodil Daphne Datura Deadly Nightshade Death Camas Devil's Ivy Delphinium Decentrea Dieffenbachia Dracaena Palm Dragon Tree Dumb Cane Easter Lily Eggplant Elaine Elderberry Elephant Ear Emerald Feather English Ivy Eucalyptus Euonymus Evergreen Ferns Fiddle-leaf fig Florida Beauty Flax Four O'Clock Foxglove Fruit Salad Plant Geranium German Ivy Giant Dumb Cane Glacier IvyGolden Chain Gold Dieffenbachia Gold Dust Dracaena Golden Glow Golden Pothos Gopher Purge Hahn's Self-Branching Ivy Heartland Philodendron Hellebore Hemlock, Poison Hemlock, Water Henbane Holly Honeysuckle Horsebeans Horsebrush Horse Chestnuts Hurricane Plant Hyacinth Hydrangea Indian Rubber Plant Indian Tobacco Iris Iris Ivy Jack in the Pulpit Janet Craig Dracaena Japanese Show Lily Java Beans Jessamine Jerusalem Cherry Jimson Weed Jonquil Jungle Trumpets Kalanchoe Lacy Tree Philodendron Lantana Larkspur Laurel Lily Lily Spider Lily of the Valley Locoweed Lupine Madagascar Dragon Tree Marble Queen Marigold Marijuana Mescal Bean Mexican Breadfruit Miniature Croton Mistletoe Mock Orange Monkshood Moonseed Morning Glory Mother-in Law's Tongue Morning Glory Mountain Laurel Mushrooms Narcissus Needlepoint Ivy Nephytis Nightshade Oleander Onion Oriental Lily Peace Lily Peach (pits and wilting leaves) Pencil Cactus Peony Periwinkle Philodendron Pimpernel Plumosa Fern Poinciana Poinsettia (low toxicity) Poison Hemlock Poison Ivy Poison Oak Pokeweed Poppy Potato Pothos Precatory Bean Primrose Privet, Common Red Emerald Red Princess Red-Margined Dracaena Rhododendron Rhubarb Ribbon Plant Rosemary Pea Rubber Plant Saddle Leaf Philodendron Sago Palm Satin Pothos Schefflera Scotch Broom Silver Pothos Skunk Cabbage Snowdrops Snow on the Mountain Spotted Dumb Cane Staggerweed Star of Bethlehem String of Pearls Striped Dracaena Sweetheart Ivy Sweetpea Swiss Cheese plant Tansy Mustard Taro Vine Tiger Lily Tobacco Tomato Plant (green fruit, stem and leaves) Tree Philodendron Tropic Snow Dieffenbachia Tulip Tung Tree Virginia Creeper Water Hemlock Weeping Fig Wild Call Wisteria Yews: Japanese Yew English Yew Western Yew American YewWhat are the signs of poisoning? The signs of poisoning can be vary - drooling, repeated vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, suddenly collapse, excessive irritation (red, swollen, blistering or raw) of the skin, the mouth or throat, . Skin reactions It’s more common for plants to cause skin irritation in cats than to poison them. Contact with the leaves, stems or sap of certain plants can cause rashes and hypersensitivity to sunlight resulting in sunburn. In cats these plants can cause blistering or itching of the mouth and gums. Sneezing and eye problems can also be caused through contact with these plants. What to do? You should contact your veterinary surgeon immediately if your cat is showing signs of poisoning. If you see your cat eat something that you suspect to be poisonous, don’t attempt to make it vomit. Take your cat to the vet with a sample of the plant or even better a plant label. Make a note of the time of eating and any symptoms. Several days may pass between the ingestion of the undesirable material and the effects. How to prevent the poisoning in cats? You can prevent your cat from chewing on plants by misting the leaves then sprinkling them with cayenne pepper. You might also want to consider planting a container of grass (regular grass, not the drug) for your cat. If your cats are digging in your pots, go to your local hobby/craft store and buy a few pieces of plastic needlepoint canvas. Trim it to the shape of the pot, cut a slit in it and then a hole in the center for the plant. Rest it on top of the soil and your cat will be unable to dig. Of course it’s impossible for you to prevent your cat coming into contact with hazardous plants in neighbouring gardens but you can make a note of any toxic plants in their gardens. After gardening, ensure hedge clippings or uprooted plants are tidied up. Bulbs, rhizomes, and the roots can be the most hazardous parts of some plants.
Cat NeuteringWhen you adopt a puppy or kitten, you may receive a great deal of misinformation about the effects of neutering and spaying. Sometimes people believe neutering is unfair to the individual cat. However neutering does more than prevent your cat from having kittens. It also keeps your cat healthy.According to a 1995 survey by the American Animal Association Hospital, nearly 80 percent of the cats and dogs in the United States and Canada are spayed or neutered. What do these people know that you don't?What is Neutering?Neutering is routine operation performed by the veterinarian to remove the cat's sex organs. This procedure makes your cat unable to reproduce and stops the production of hormones that are responsible for the cat's sexual behavior. Unless you plan to breed your cat, deciding whether to neuter or not is one of the most important decisions a new cat owner will have to face.What is done exactly?The feline neuter is one of the simplest surgical procedures performed in all of veterinary medicine. The cat is fasted over night so that anesthesia is performed on an empty stomach. The procedure for males cat's is called castration and for females, spaying.Castration is the surgical removal of the gonads (testicles) in male animals, which removes the source of sperm and also the source of the male sex hormone, testosterone. Under a general anaesthetic, male cats have the fur "plucked" from their scrotum. Two small incisions are made in the skin of the scrotum and the cat is castrated, i.e. has both testicles removed.Spaying is the surgical removal of the uterus and ovaries from the abdomen. Female cats undergo the equivalent of a full hysterectomy. An area on the flank or the stomach is shaved. Both ovaries and the uterus can usually be removed through a neat little incision.When to neuter your cat?In the USA, it is becoming increasingly common for cats to be neutered at very young ages, sometimes at the age of eight weeks.It is best to check with your veterinarian but usually some vets will recommend that the procedure be done when the cat is about six months old before the cat reaches sexual maturity. This may vary. Some cats will not reach that point until a few month later. It is possible to neuter when pregnant, however this is very dangerous for the mother if in late pregnancy.How long after the operation will she be herself again?It usually doesn't take long. Males are usually backed to normal the day after their operation, while females may take a day or longer.The positive side of NeuteringMost pet owners are aware that pets should be neutered, but only some know all the reasons why neutering is beneficial, particularly in male cats. Let's do a reality check and discover the benefits of these procedures for the typical household cat.- Following puberty, at approximately 6-8 months old, the male cat develops a number of "undesirable" behavioural changes. He will become territorial and start to mark areas, often in the house, by spraying urine, which will by now have developed a particularly strong, lingering odour which is very difficult to remove. He will start to enlarge his territory by straying ever further from the house, particularly at night. It is for this reason that many cats involved in road traffic accidents are "entire" males.- Neutering also greatly reduces the chances of the cat spraying in the home. Besides being unsanitary, the urine odor and stains are extremely difficult to remove. So neutering reducing stress for the owners and increasing the cat’s chances of being a loved and wanted family member.- Neutering will eliminate heat cycles at females, which usually occur several times a year, and behaviors associated with heats - kneading, howling and restlessness. It will reduce the incidence of urine spraying. The risk of mammary cancer is reduced if a cat is spayed before its first heat. Also spayed cats cannot develop pyometra, a serious uterine infection.- It prevents your cat from getting pregnant. A neutered cat (male or female) will not produce unwanted kittens.- A spayed female is a more attentive and loving pet, because her energy isn't constantly directed toward finding a mate. (Cats are in heat nearly all the time until they become pregnant.) If you spay your cat, you protect her from some cancers and infections and from sexually transmitted infectious diseases.- Neutered females no longer have that irresistible attraction to males, who will urinate in the female's territory to claim ownership of her, fight any other contenders for her affection.- Neutering makes your cat more calm and affectionate. They take more interest in their owners, may become more people oriented unless the cat was not very social with people to begin with. According to statistics, male cats that are neutered tend to live longer than male cats that are not neutered.The Negative Side of Neutering- Spaying will result in the sterilization of your cat, and she will no longer have the ability to become pregnant. If you wish to breed your cat, spaying should not be done.- Some cats may gain weight after spaying. Unspayed animals typically have a strong mating desire and can expend a lot of energy seeking a mate and reproducing. Without this energy burden, your cat may eat the same amount but not burn off as many calories.
The Benefits of Older CatsOlder cats are generally quieter and more sensible than kittens or young cats and generally need less supervision. They are already used to household life and know the ground rules of living with people. Instead of becoming bored and needing to let off steam in your absence they are more likely to doze, leaving your furnishings intact. An older cat will already be housetrained and adult cats adopted from shelters will probably already be neutered and possibly already vaccinated.Older cats have less energy and are more placid than kittens and are content to spend much of their time watching the world go by. As they slow down, their play becomes less energetic and less alarmingly acrobatic. Cats are at their most companionable in these later years. They enjoy attention and companionship, but will not pester you continually for games. Most owners find caring for such cats a very rewarding experience and in turn, an older cat will enjoy the love and security that a caring cat owner can provide.FEEDING OLDER CATSAs a cat gets older, its digestive system becomes less efficient and it requires several smaller, easily digested meals a day rather than two main meals. Waltham Nutrition Centre researchers have determined that changes to the digestive system begin to take place around 7 years of age so that older cats need food containing easily digested protein.Most cats enjoy a variety of tinned food, semi-moist pellets, dry food (kibble) and occasional treats of cooked meat/fish. "Complete" cat food provides a balanced diet for your cat while "complementary" food should be fed as a treat only. If you use tinned food, always clear away or refrigerate uneaten food otherwise it will become stale or fly-blown and may cause digestive upsets if eaten later.There are also "life-stage" foods available, which are aimed specifically at Older Cats and Less Active Cats. These are formulated to suit an older cat's digestive system and to reduce the risk of obesity in less active cats. They provide easily digested protein, but they are often expensive and not all cats like them. Unless your cat has problems digesting ordinary cat food, is becoming overweight or is on prescription food, ordinary complete formulation cat food accompanied by fresh drinking water is adequate. Before being fooled by slick advertising for life-stage formulations ask your vet if your cat really needs it. Personally, I give an occasional treat of kitten formulation food to older cats.Any cat which is experiencing difficulty in eating or has lost its appetite should be examined by a vet in case there is an underlying problem. Likewise, a suddenly increased appetite, especially if it is coupled with weight loss or poor condition, needs to be investigated. Signs of poor diet include thin, dull coat, excessive shedding or dandruff, weight loss, vomiting, diarrhoea, yellow teeth and mouth odour. A cat that wobbles as he walks is probably receiving too many calories for his level of activity.GENERAL CARE OF OLDER CATSGroomingOlder cats may be less supple than when younger and may require more help with grooming. Brushing a cat can be very relaxing and is usually enjoyable to both cat and owner. Daily grooming ensures quality time set aside exclusively for your cat that may otherwise be forgotten if you have a busy schedule. Extremely old cats may pay little attention to their hygiene, but they will appreciate it if you help keep them clean, comfortable and sweet smelling. If you have two companionable cats they may help to groom each other.Brushing removes dead hair from the coat and helps prevent matted fur and also prevent furballs since the cat will swallow less hair when it grooms itself. A fine-toothed comb will help remove parasites from the skin. The area under the tail may sometimes need a gentle wipe with damp tissue or a pet wipe. Not many cats like having their belly combed and there is no need to press the point unless the belly fur becomes matted. As well as keeping the coat in good condition, grooming helps to establish a strong bond between cats and between cat and owner.Sleeping PlacesMost cats are happy to sleep in a blanket-lined box or on chairs or beds if allowed. If you want to buy your elderly cat its own cat bed or basket choose one, which is large enough that the cat does not have to curl up tightly; older cats are less supple and less able to fit themselves into small cat beds. Most elderly cats find beanbag beds comfortable as the polystyrene beans keep in the warmth and provide support for a rickety body or stiff limbs.Make sure your cat's bed is situated away from draughts. No cat likes to sleep in a draught, but this is particularly important with older cats, as they cannot withstand extremes of temperature as easily as youngsters. They have less insulating fat than young cats and need a cosy, draught-free bed. Most will automatically seek out the warmest spot in the house.Placing your cat's bed beside a warm radiator at night ensures that Puss stays warm, especially in winter. A covered hot-water bottle or a heated pad, designed especially for pets and available from larger pet-shops, is useful if your cat feels the cold or is recovering from illness.A Less Active LifestyleAlthough older cats often remain active well into their teens or twenties and should be encouraged to take moderate exercise, they will lack the athleticism of youth. They still require some exercise to keep them healthy, but are unlikely to participate in high-impact aerobics as they did when younger.High surfaces, such as favourite windowsills or ledges, become inaccessible to them unless you provide a stool or ramp as a stepping stone. An advantage of this is that shelves and counters may well become cat-free zones. Ornaments and cookery ingredients are less likely to be overturned by older cats; their curiosity is unabated, but they no longer want to exert themselves by jumping up onto high surfaces.HEALTH CAREAn adult cat adopted from a rescue shelter may already have been neutered (castrated or spayed). If not, neutering will probably is included in the adoption contract. If you have adopted an unneutered adult cat (or one has adopted you), I strongly recommend that it is neutered. Neutering prevents unnecessary litters of kittens and helps eliminate antisocial habits, such as spraying, singing and fighting in tomcats. Neutered cats are at less risk from Feline Leukaemia Virus (FeLV) or Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV), which can be contracted through fighting with other cats. A neutered cat is a contented cat with a longer life expectancy and it will be more home-oriented and a much nicer pet. Unspayed females are more prone to infections of the womb and also mammary tumours than are spayed females.VaccinationsIt is important to keep Cat Flu and Feline Infectious Enteritis (Distemper) vaccinations up to date as a cat grows older. Though it's tempting to let these lapse, an older cat has a less efficient immune system so vaccinations are more important with age. Some cats will have been vaccinated by the previous owner and only require annual booster shots. If the cat hasn't had any vaccinations, or you aren't sure about this, you can start vaccinations at any age.Depending on where you live, vaccinations are available for Cat Flu, Enteritis (Distemper), FeLV, Chlamydia, FIP and Rabies. Your vet will be able to advise on which ones are required or advisable in your area.ParasitesThe most common skin parasite of cats are fleas. Many cats develop an itchy reaction to flea bites and we recommend regular use of a flea spray or flea powder formulated specifically for use on cats and used in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Flea collars are convenient, but less effective, and must have an elasticated section for the cat's safety. Tapeworms, roundworms and other internal parasites afflict older cats as well as young cats, particularly cats that go outdoors. It is recommended that a cat be treated for worms, especially roundworms, every 3 to 6 months. This may be modified for indoor-only cats. Further information about fleas, worms and other parasites specific to your locality can be found in most cat care publications.Teeth and GumsOlder cats are more prone to dental problems such as loose teeth, build-up of tartar on teeth and sore gums (gingivitis). Difficulty in eating and trouble grooming indicates mouth-problems. After de-scaling (tartar removal) of teeth or extraction of bad teeth, the cat's appetite and normal grooming soon return. Many cats appear "rejuvenated" after dental problems have been treated.If possible, check your cat's teeth and gums regularly, looking for yellow or brown scale, inflamed gums and mouth ulcers. An annual dental check up at vaccination time is advisable. Dried food, fed as part of the cat's diet, has an abrasive action on teeth and helps to keep them clean. If you feed dried food regularly, ensure there is plenty of fresh drinking water available.ClawsAs well as checking teeth and gums, check claws regularly and trim them if they become overgrown. An older cat may no longer wear down its claws as quickly as it once did and more frequent trimming may be needed. Overgrown claws can snag, sometimes causing injury as the cat tries to pull the claw free. Badly overgrown claws will cause discomfort and problems with walking.Waterworks and BowelsKeep an eye on the cat's water bowl. Although older cats tend to drink more water anyway, dramatically increased thirst can indicate kidney problems, which are more common in cats as they grow older and their kidneys work less efficiently, or cystitis. Cats with cystitis pass tiny amounts of urine, sometimes bloodstained, more frequently. Cystitis causes discomfort and must be treated by a vet. Cats with kidney disease can be put on prescription diets if the problem is caught early. There are other reasons a cat might start to drink more so any unexplained increased thirst should be investigated and diagnosed by a vet.VomitingCats sometimes regurgitate their food, especially if they have bolted it or have scavenged something unsuitable. Some will eat grass to promote vomiting. Cats, particularly longhairs, tend to bring up hairballs unless groomed regularly. Cases of unexplained vomiting which last for more than 24 hours or are accompanied by diarrhoea or other symptoms should be referred to your vet. If untreated, vomiting can lead to dehydration. It may also be a symptom of poisoning. Both vomiting and diarrhoea can lead to dehydration if not treated.Older Cat ClinicsAs cats grow older, they become less resilient when it comes to illness or injury and recover more slowly. They may develop stiffer joints, but their more relaxed pace of life usually means that this does not worry them unduly. Many vets now run "Older Cat Clinics" and recommend that cats over 5 years old have a veterinary check-up every 6-12 months so that any problems can be caught and treated early. Another benefit of "Older Cat Clinics" is that you will meet other owners of older cats and have a chance to compare notes. Annual vaccination time is another ideal opportunity for an annual check-up.WHEN TO CALL THE VETCats are generally healthy creatures and fairly maintenance free. However, when they are unwell they are adept at disguising symptoms of illness. Most good cat care books contain information about ailments which can affect cats of all ages. The following symptoms in an older cat should be investigated by your vet.* evidence of poisoning or injury * house-soiling * constipation or diarrhoea despite a balanced diet * frequent urination or problems urinating * unexplained or frequent vomiting * excessive thirst * loss of appetite or excessive appetite * sudden loss of weight * change of activity level - suddenly hyperactive or lethargic * lumps and bumps on the cat's skin * panting when at rest * rapid heartbeat * dental problems * looking off-colour, withdrawn or not interested in things * unusual behaviour, confusion * staggering or sudden collapse * mobility problems, stiffness, limping, pain when touchedDon't delay in taking your cat to the vet if you are concerned about its health. Although the cause may turn out to be trivial, your vet would much rather declare your cat fit and healthy than have to tell you that an illness has progressed too far to be treatable. It is more effective to treat problems early on, ensuring a healthier, longer life.
The Cats and the Cold Weather Cold weather can be hard on cats, just like it can be hard on people. When the thermometer dips below freezing, it is important to protect your cats from the cold spell. The most important is to keep your cat indoors. Probably the best prescription for winter's woes is to keep your cat inside with you and your family. Being outdoors, unattended, does nothing to improve the quality of your cat’s life. Cold weather problems Sometimes owners forget that their cats are just as accustomed to the warm shelter of the indoors as they are. Some owners will leave their cats outside for extended periods of time, thinking that they are adapted to live outdoors. This can put their pets in danger of serious illness.Hypothermia, or a body temperature that is below normal, is a condition that occurs when the cats are not able to keep their body temperature from falling below normal. It happens when they spend too much time in cold temperatures, or when cats with poor health or circulation are exposed to cold. In mild cases, your cat will shivers and show signs of depression, lethargy, and weakness. As the condition progresses, her muscles will stiffen, her heart and breathing rates will slow down, and she will stop responding to stimuli. If you notice these symptoms, you need to get your cat warm and take her to your veterinarian.Another cold-related problem is frostbite. Sometimes your cat may accidentally be left outside or become lost during a heavy snowstorm. Frostbite may result. If this happens, remember - frozen tissues should never be rubbed. This causes additional tissue damage. Prompt veterinary treatment is needed. If this is not possible, warm the affected area rapidly by immersing in warm, never hot, water or by using warm, moist towels that are changed frequently. As soon as the affected tissues become flushed, discontinue warming. Gently dry the affected tissues and lightly cover with a clean, dry, non-adhering bandage. If frostbite is in the later stages, gangrene may set in and cause all kinds of infections. So, if you suspect your cat has frostbite, take her to the veterinarian. How to deal with cold weather As winter weather really sets in, don't forget to help keep your cats warm and safe. Help your cats remain healthy during the colder months by following these simple guidelines.
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The winter season can be harsh on our cats, so that you should fortify their coat. Supplementing their diet with essential fatty acids that will cause the coat to grow in a bit thicker for the cold months. Vegetable oils such as canola oil, safflower oil, soybean oil, butter and fish oils are high in these fatty acids. They can be added to the food. Cats do have a preference for the fish oils!
Increase your cat’s supply of food, particularly protein, to keep his fur thick and healthy through the winter months. So long as your cat does not have a weight problem, give her extra food and treats during the winter months to help her keep warm.
Give your cat vitaminss E and B-complex that will strengthen the tissues and make cats more resistant to cold. But you should be careful, because providing additional vitamins can actually cause imbalances in her diet and medical problems.
Be particularly gentle with elderly and arthritic cats during the winter. The cold can leave their joints extremely stiff and tender, and they may become more awkward than usual. Stay directly below these cats when they are climbing stairs or jumping onto furniture. Consider modifying their environment to make it easier for them to get around. Make sure they have a thick, soft bed in a warm room for the chilly nights.Make sure your cat has a warm place to sleep far away from all outside drafts and preferably off the floor - such as a basket or a cardboard box with a warm blanket in it. If your cat normally sleeps on the floor, provide her with warm and comfortable mat or bed.Keep fireplaces screened. Cats luxuriate in its warmth. However, if they lie too close to the fire, they are in danger of hot cinders or sparks. Fireplace heat also contributes to dry skin. Fumes from the fireplace may cause respiratory problems in some cats.If you have to take your cat to the vet, put a hot water bottle in the carrier. You can also put the cat's bed in the dryer for a few minutes before putting into the carrier. A cover, or towel on the carrier is good for blocking draughts.
Keep your pet's coat well groomed. Matted fur won't properly protect your pet from the cold.
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Keep your cat outside as the weather starts getting colder so she can adapt. She needs to physically adjust to the temperature change, grow a thicker coat and build up a resistance to the weather.The cats that spend a lot of time outdoors need more food in the winter because keeping warm depletes energy. So the cat owners may also have to change the eating habits of their pets during the winter.Check food and water often to make certain they are fresh and unfrozen. Don't use metal bowls outside during the winter. Your cat's tongue may accidentally stick to the bowl. Sometimes the cat owners don't realize that a water bowl has frozen and their cats can't get anything to drink. The cats that don't have access to clean, unfrozen water are more likely to drink out of puddles or gutters, which can be polluted with oil, antifreeze, household cleaners, and other chemicals.
Especially important for every outdoor cat is to have a place adequate sheltered during cold weather. Ensure your cat with insulated house. The house should be large enough for turning around, yet small enough to conserve body heat. The floor should be raised a few inches off the ground and covered with cedar shavings or straw. The house should be turned to face away from the wind, and the doorway should be covered with waterproof burlap or heavy plastic.
Never use newspaper, towels, or blankets inside a cat's shelter. They will retain the cold and become stiff and hard. Instead, use straw.During the winter, cats sometimes sleep under the hood of your cars or in the garage where it is warm and comfortable. You should be aware that the antifreeze is of particular concern, as it can be deadly for cats that lick it from garage floors. If your cat sleeps under the hood of your car, when you start the motor she could get caught in or flung about by the fan belt, causing serious injury or even death. To prevent this, bang loudly on the hood and sides of your car before turning on the ignition to give the cat a chance to escape.