LULU If you cant find a partner use a wooden chair

Love for Lulu

by Elizabeth Krebs

UPTOWN magazine

While I can’t pinpoint the exact reason why I love Lulu on Central Avenue in Plaza Midwood, I do have some theories. The main one is that it gives me the same comfort and feeling of the cafés that I love in my hometown of Atlanta. But to really get to the heart of the matter, I decided to ask Fabrice Dinonno and Marc Jacksina, the owners of Lulu, what brand of alchemy they are practicing to make me fall so in love with the place.Some background: I moved to Charlotte about a year and a half ago from, as you’ve probably guessed, Atlanta. The thing I crave when I go back to my old stomping grounds are the cozy cafés that I can sit in for hours on end with a good book, a fresh cup of coffee, and a pastry or dessert. When I moved to Charlotte I discovered many coffee shops that offer this but, for some reason, the corporate ambiance of most of them often leaves me feeling a bit rushed and almost always wanting something more, something welcoming, and something good to eat. Then I found Lulu, a restaurant café that gives me that feeling, the feeling of being at home.The setting is very simple but elegant, with soft mustard-colored walls hung with still life photos, white linen covered tables, and very subtle lighting. Outside, the patio features wrought-iron tables, perfect for people-watching on a warm Charlotte day. Whether enjoying a coffee and dessert by yourself, or a full meal with family and friends, the place just flat out works. As Dinnono explained, Lulu was meant to be all about “…casual elegance, inviting to everything and everyone, a warm atmosphere.” He said that Lulu was originally supposed to be a lunch-style bistro, but as time went on dinner became the hot event, with original dishes created by executive chef Jacksina.Jacksina added, “Lulu was the culmination of my voice really coming out. I got to create the menu from scratch, which was both exciting and challenging,”On a recent Friday night, the place was packed and I was very glad that I had called to make a reservation. The dishes at Lulu are French-inspired, with a bit of American Southern influence. For instance, the fried calamari was properly tender, but the accompanying spicy slaw set up the flavors in an unconventional but delightful manner. The menu changes with the seasons, so you may not find this when you visit, but the “Duck Duck Jus” is my idea of a perfect dish, cooked tender, topped with a raisin compote and sautéed field mushrooms, all tied together with a lightly salted sauce (the jus). Ahh. Bistro-style comfort food like this is like a magnet, bound to bring me back again and again, as would a typically fine Lulu finale of house-made lemon tart --Jacksina’s grandmother’s recipe -- accompanied, of course, by my standard security blanket, a frothy cappuccino.Lulu is one of the growing number of restaurants in town that supports the local agricultural community by using seasonal produce from nearby farmers. Chef Jacksina’s philosophy is to use fresh local produce whenever possible. “My background is as a saucier,” he said, “But in this kitchen I only need to use minimal sauce because the ingredients are top quality. The goal is never to cover up the food, only to accentuate the tastes.”The menu features lesser known cuts of meat and game, and I’ve never seen a filet mignon on the menu; Jacksina believes that any chef can take a piece of filet, cook it and cover it with sauce but, “…it takes doing something special with certain cuts of meat to get love in them, and when you do, it’s a taste you can’t get anywhere else.” Among the exceptional ingredients that are used in the kitchen, for instance, are Poulet Red heirloom chickens, which greatly surpass standard chickens in taste and tenderness, and, when available, fresh fruit from Wilmington Orchards.This is the first individual venture for Jacksina, and the first co-venture for Jacksina and Dinnono as a duo. Both have had experiences in the restaurant industry in New York but had never met prior to moving to Charlotte; Jacksina has been living in Charlotte for years as a chef and Dinnono moved here about two years ago, determined to find a location and a good chef to bring his dream of a restaurant to life. They only knew each other for two months before opening Lulu, but everything fell into place. The only trouble the two encountered was in creating the name, which both partners wanted to be something personal and “monumental.” The name was ultimately conceived by Dinnono. He called Jacksina, who was celebrating his son’s birthday, and said, “What about ‘Lulu’?” It was, he explained, the combination of the first two letters of Jacksina’s son, Lucas, and Dinnono’s daughter, Lucy. Personal and monumental indeed! Jacksina said, “Fabrice isn’t often wrong, and he definitely nailed it with the name.” Now I know why I love Lulu. It’s not only the food, or the setting, but it’s because of people who bring life to their vision, who can turn ordinary food into something extraordinary by putting a little love into it and making it their own. I understand it now. When it comes to expressing the collaborative vision of their restaurant, as Jacksina puts it, “Fabrice is the heart, and I am the soul of Lulu.”

ABOUT THE RESTAURANT

Lulu

1911 Central Ave.

Charlotte, NC 28205

(704) 376-2242

DETAILS

Cuisine type

American, French, Fusion

Meals Served

Brunch

Lunch

Dinner

Prices

Moderate - $15-25

Payment methods

MasterCard

Visa

Specialties

Vegetarian options

Services

Catering

Seating Capacity

50