Surfing changed my life. Through surfing I got respect and met people whom I otherwise would never have had the opportunity to know. You'll never find a lifestyle as precious as the surfer's life. It's what stories are made of. Everyone of us has our own story and we're all legends in our own way and if it weren't for the love of surfing, my life would not be as rich today. There is a hierarchy in surfing. You learned early to respect the elder surfers for they always knew more about the ocean, had more experience, and had better equipment. They inspired me and shared their ocean wisdom of rip tides, swell direction, wave intervals, winds, and surfing techniques. They taught me to love the ocean like a true friend. To respect its power and might and to always flow in harmony with the sea. Surfing has been in my life for over 20 years. I still remember the very first time I rode a wave. I remember how fast it went and see the ocean bottom and fish going by while you walked on water. It was magical. Over the years, it grew to be spiritual and soulful. When I am on the water, I am always with friends, those who are here, and those who have gone before. On the water, that is where I can have my communion, and my community. This is what it means, the love of surfing, fulfillment, expression, peace, and friends. Surfing is my true passion and directly influences everything I do in life. It makes me realize never take anything in life for granted, live each day to the fullest and count your blessings along the way. When I stop and analyze it. I'm rich. I established friendships that to this day I still cherish and forever will. This is one of the many things surfing has done for me, and it can do it for anyone who paddles out to enjoy God's gift of waves. Longboarding is a dance. Surfing is beautiful. Riding nature is incredible. Surfing longboards has to be the ultimate way to ride a wave. Not to detract from what shortboarding has to offer, it's great fun. But to really enjoy the act of riding a wave, you've got to slow it down and nothing slows it down like riding a longboard."
My Interests
Longboard surfing, playing the ukulele, kanikapila with the bruddahs, sharing the love of the ocean, love to cook and eat.
