"i'd rather be happy and poor than have it all and still want more." - bigwig
surfing
how long have you been surfing? since i was 11, around 8 yrs.
what was your 1st ride? 5'9" pig single fin rozo.
what do you ride now? 5'10" thumbnail pin t.patterson, 6'2" quiet flight, 6'2" cb.
are you regular or goofy? reg.
do you prefer rights or lefts? rights all day long.
where do you surf the most? secret spots, south fl., southern north carolina.
what is your favorite spot/spots? witches rock, salt creek, crystal pier, reef rd., carrot island, new smyrna, cardiff, anywhere in dana point, places no one is at.
what has been your best surf so far? winter of '03 at onslow beach, nc infront of the military camp with pumping rights all morning and most of the afternoon.
who is your favorite surfer/surfers? my best bros, pat o', tom curren, gerry lopez, shaun tomson, taylor knox, shane dorian, tamayo perry, robert august, buttons kaluhiokalani.
describe what your dream board would be. 5'10" double concave thumbnail pin white t.patterson, blue "point of conception" logo in the middle, and pat o' creatures traction.
how often do you surf every week? every morning and most afternoons after school.
do you usually paddle out alone or with your friends? alone every morning b/c no one will wake up, with the boys the rest of the day.
what do you look for the most when you surf? nice beaches with nice water and no people.
have you ever competed? ya.
what has been the biggest you've surfed so far? definitely hurricane floyd in '99.
describe what your perfect excursion would be like. just me, my girl, and my best bros taking off to costa, gold coast, teahupoo, france, g-land, south africa, south america, pipe, and finally to tavarua. we'd wake up early as hell every morning, paddle out to the sunrise, and surf until our legs gave out.
what has changed the most about surfing since you started? back in the day everyone surfed b/c it was fun, not to try and be better than anyone else. today everywhere you look there are these kids barging into the sport and calling themselves "surfers" as if they've been doing it all of their lives. they surf to try and be cool and compare themselves to every other surfer. these kids need to be farted on about 5 times.
what do you feel surfing is all about? absolutely nothing else but having fun and being happy. it doesn't matter how flat it is, i'm just so stoked to be out in the ocean where i belong waiting for that perfect set with that perfect wave. surfing, without a doubt, has made me a better, more relaxed person. i'll be surfing until the day i die.
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