Tante Clementine the Praline Vendor

A Deadhead and his dog walked into a bar. The Deadhead said to the bartender, "Can I have a beer? I don’t have any money, but I have this talking dog." The bartender said, "If your dog can really talk, I’ll give you a beer on the house." The Deadhead said to the dog, "Hey, what’s your favorite Dead song?" The dog barked, "Wharf, Wharf, Wharf." The bartender, furious, threw the Deadhead and the dog out of the bar. Once outside, the dog turned to the Deadhead and said, "Maybe I should have said Dark Star. " I am ME.The Elizabeth Islands and Hadley Harbor New England is known for its graveyards. Town cemeteries tell stories, simply on gravestones or in the minds of those who believe the dead speak as ghosts. The Elizabeth Islands, or Gosnold, as they are officially called, has a burial ground, too, one that truly haunts passersby.About a mile southwest of Cuttyhunk, you'll cross the westernmost tip of this necropolis, just 2 to 4 feet below the surface. It's charted as Sow and Pigs Reef, and you can mark it on the water by crashing breakers and a sudden jump to single digits on your depth sounder-if you're silly enough to come that close.Ships have been hog-tied on this reef for centuries, often dragging their crew to the bottom along with their own skeletons. Every decade or so, a commercial vessel or cruise ship makes headlines for striking Sow and Pigs Reef, but it's the annual allotment of recreational craft "keeling over" that keeps the ghost stories alive.The reef is actually an underwater extension of the archipelago known as the Elizabeth Islands-16 islands in all, dividing Buzzards Bay from Vineyard Sound. Some are mere rocks or sandbars no more than an acre in breadth, the remainder of a Cape Cod peninsula left behind by the glacier as it receded 10,000 years ago. The islands are protected from rapid erosion by a ring of glacial rocks that line their shores.Bartholomew Gosnold first "discovered" the Elizabeths in 1602 and named the place either after his sister who was still living in England or for his fondness for the queen. No matter what the origin, the Elizabeths were uninhabited by white settlers, and this left many of the Native American names intact. In 1863, the islands were incorporated into the Town of Gosnold, still the smallest township in Massachusetts.During the 19th century, Tarpaulin Cove, midway through Vineyard Sound on the south side of Naushon Island, was the most prominent port. It served as a refuge for cargo schooners seeking shelter on their New York-to-Boston course. Like many island harbors, Tarpaulin Cove lost the bulk of its business when the Cape Cod Canal opened in 1914.In the mid-19th century, Naushon Island belonged to John M. Forbes, a close friend of Oliver Wendell Holmes, the leading literary light of Boston. In his "Autocrat at the Breakfast Table," Holmes rhapsodized about the beauty of Forbes's island estate:It is the most splendid domain that any man looks upon in these latitudes. Blue sea around it, and running up into its heart, so that the little boat slumbers like a baby in lap, while the tall ships are tripping naked to fight the hurricane outside.Trees in stretches for miles; beeches, oaks...some of them hung with moss, looking like bearded Druids; some coiled in the clasp of huge, dark-stemmed grape vines. Open patches where the sun gets in and goes to sleep, and the winds come so finely sifted that they are as soft as swan's down. Most of the Elizabeth Islands, except Cuttyhunk, are owned by the Forbes family (a distant relation to Malcolm) and remain largely uninhabited. Tarpaulin Cove is still a popular port for refuge on the southern side of the islands, as is near-perfect Hadley Harbor, a natural haven formed by Uncatena and Nonamesset islands, on the north side.The Forbes family attempts to keep the islands as close to their natural state as possible. Most land areas are off-limits, which means that everything will be the same when you return the next time. There are no facilities, and where you can go ashore (respect the posted signs), you can't bring any pets or start any fires. The resident wildlife will surely thank you.At sunset, look toward Naushon Island and you'll see deer browsing the shoreline for food while sheep graze in the meadows farther inland. A wild horse or fox may also look over to say hello. Toss a line into the crystalline water for some dinner. Nature's beauty is always close by here. While you can anchor almost anywhere, you may only go ashore on the beaches at Tarpaulin Cove, West Beach, and Kettle Cove. You're forbidden from all other areas without permission of the Naushon Trust. If you're in doubt, the signs on the shore will help you.On Bull Island, the scenery is what to see, and enjoy it is what you should do. There's a dinghy dock and picnic area (maintained by the Forbes family) that are open during the summer.Bird-watchers will see many sea- and shorebirds on land and afloat, as this area is a favorite nesting spot for terns and gulls. There are no restaurants on the Elizabeth Islands (save for the few small eateries ..tyhunk.)Tarpaulin Cove on Naushon Island and Bull Island in Hadley Harbor are favorite spots for packing a meal ashore.Dangerous Sow and Pigs Reef extends a mile and a half southwest of Cuttyhunk Island at the southern tip of the Elizabeth Islands.The Elizabeth Islands are a string of 16 islands stretching 14nm from Woods Hole to Cuttyhunk, the Elizabeths are often shrouded in fog during summer, but on a clear day they reveal a rolling landscape of low hills and watery rifts. Hadley Harbor is located in the southwest corner of Woods Hole, nestled between Uncatena, Naushon, and Nonamesset Islands.On both the north and south side of the Elizabeth Islands you'll find deep water practically right up to the shorelines. Unfortunately, the channels cutting in between the islands feature fast currents and are often laden with rocks. There are four navigable passages through the Elizabeth Islands. I'd recommend that you stick to Woods Hole and Quicks Hole, located between Pasque and Nashawena islands. Robinsons Hole and Canapitsit Channel should be left to locals who have boated through them before.Quicks Hole is quite deep and straight, and currents running through can reach speeds of 2.5 knots. Take caution at the northern entrance of the channel.About 4.5nm northwest at Quicks Hole's southern entrance is Tarpaulin Cove, which is situated on the south side of Naushon Island. Tarpaulin Cove offers protection from northwesterlies, easy access to Vineyard Sound, and pleasant surroundings.The best spot for anchoring is near the southwest end of the beach near the lighthouse. Currents in Vineyard Sound can exceed 3 knots, so take care when navigating close in or anchoring.On the north side of Naushon Island is Kettle Cove, a nice spot for swimming, which sits about 3.5nm northeast of Lone Rock's marker at Quicks Hole. Kettle Cove has deep water but is not well protected from the weather. Just 2.7nm northeast of this spot, still on Naushon's north shore, is an unnamed gunkhole in the bight south of Weepecket Islands. This spot has deep water and good shelter from winds out of the south and east.Hadley Harbor Your cruise of the Elizabeth Islands would be incomplete without a visit to Hadley Harbor, which is located on the northeast tip of Naushon Island, between Uncatena and Nonamesset islands. This favorite hideaway is about 10nm from Quicks Hole, 1.5nm from Great Harbor at Woods Hole, and 3.4nm from Quissett Harbor.Hadley's Inner Harbor is divided from the Outer Harbor by Bull Island, creating one of the most well-protected anchorages on the east coast, often sought out by boaters as a hurricane hole. Drafts of 8 feet can be brought in mid-channel at low tide.TAKE YOUR TIME on your approach to Woods Hole Passage during slack water. Newcomers, especially those in sailboats or low-powered vessels, should not challenge the strength of the Woods Hole currents, which can exceed 4 knots. Be aware that buoys in the busy channels between Great Harbor and Hadley Harbor are often pulled under water.The Outer Harbor has depths of 12 to 20 feet from its center eastward; west of the center, the water shoals from 5 to 7 feet , still plenty deep enough for most cruising boats. The ground is mostly mud and weeds. Be sure your anchor is well set before taking a nap, heading ashore, or cruising about in your dinghy.Winding your way into the Inner Harbor, you'll find better protection and more space, although you may find lots of company. The channel runs between Bull Island and Nonamesset Island. Stay mid-channel to avoid the shoals extending 50 yards west of Nonamesset and the rocks extending 25 yards east of Bull.To the southeast of Bull Island, you'll find deep water near the eastern edge of Goats Neck and the northern tip of Veckatimest Island. The entrance to this area is narrow and riddled with rocks on either side.To reach the head of the Inner Harbor, head southwest of Bull Island, then continue south along Goats Neck. There isn't as much room here, but the holding ground is good and this is the most protected area in the harbor. Leave plenty of room in the channel for the Naushon-Woods Hole ferry.Have fun!