I'd like to meet:
Surfin Culture:
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"Surfin Culture"
Surf culture includes the people, language, fashion and life surrounding the sport of modern surfing.
The first known occurrences of surfing are connected to the ancient Hawaiian tradition of "he’e nalu", meaning "wave-sliding". For this ancient Hawaiian culture, the sea had an attached persona, which could reflect emotions. A good day of surfing required the proper waves, and in order to convince the sea to provide these waves, Ancient Hawaiians relied on Kahunas (priests) to pray for good surf. Kahunas would engage in ritual chants and dances, with the intention of pleasing the sea to provide the people with surfable waves.
Surfing was not merely a pastime for the leaders of old. This sport served as a training exercise meant to keep chiefs in top physical condition. Furthermore, surfing served as a system of conflict resolution. Members of the affluent class would test their skills in fierce competitions, during which wealth, pride, and even romance were at stake.
All this tradition changed though upon the arrival of the white man, or what the Hawaiian's would call 'haole'. The entire Hawaiian culture was dismantled by the arrival of Captain Cook in the late Eighteenth Century. Increasing numbers of foreigners visited Hawaii after hearing accounts of Cook's adventures. Initially these intruders were explorers and traders looking for profit, yet soon missionaries and settlers came, looking to destroy the Hawaiian culture and take the land for themselves.
These people brought no respect for the ancient traditions of the culture they invaded, and soon it would be nearly lost. The introduction of western religion stripped the supernatural elements from surfing. Forced to adapt to a new lifestyle, the natives lost touch with their ancient ways, and surfing soon went into a major decline.
As the Nineteenth Century approached, surfing was nearly an extinct pastime. Yet, surfing was not down for the count. Unlike many traditional sports, surfing had not been completely obliterated. As the Twentieth Century opened, the stage was set for a great revival.
With the onset of the 1900's came a renewed interest in surfing. Revived at first in Hawaii by a group of resistant teens known as the 'Beach Boys of Waikiki'.
Previously, Caucasians had believed that only native Hawaiians possessed the capacity to surf. This all changed though when a Hawaiian native of Irish-Hawaiian descent named George Freeth moved to California and earned acclaim as California's first lifeguard, and the world's first promotional surfer promoting a local railway company.
It was not long before surfing in America began to spread along the Californian coast. A few years later in 1915, internationally, Duke Kahanamoku (one of the greatest and most important men in surf history!) had introduced surfing to Australia, where it would catch on very quickly.
From this point onwards, many advances in technology along with the rapidly growing widespread interest in surfing took the sport further. The 'roaring twenties' were an important time for surfing. Advances in surfboard design around the 1920's were making the sport far more accessible to the public. The first ever major surf competition was in 1928. The invention of the automobile... using cars, surfers were able to easily venture along the Californian coast in search of the best waves. This led to the days of Surf Safaris (or Surfari's), during which the dedicated surfers of California would spend entire weekends travelling up and down the coast, partying as hard as they surfed.
The number of surfers was still not very large, because of the difficulty of the sport. The introduction of fins on surfboards made the sport easier to learn, and because these fins enabled more elaborate and exciting tricks, the sport quickly picked up a broader fan base.
Changes through the years in the materials used in making surfboards, have made surfboards progressively lighter and easier to manoeuvre. Initially redwood, and later balsa and plywood. The technological advancements brought on by World War Two made new materials available, enabling the modern styrofoam and fibreglass boards.
Perhaps one of the most important innovations in surfing history, and often over shadowed by the progression of the surfboard, is the wetsuit! The first wetsuit was designed in the early 1950's in California, when Jack O'Neill stitched together pieces of neoprene in the form of vests. The wetsuit was so important, because for the first time surfers could surf all year round, not to say that no one ever braved the cold water, because they did, but the wetsuit enabled the surfer to stay in the water longer, practice more, which along with progressions in surfboard opened the door to new and radical surfing manoeuvres being explored.
The modern day surfing culture began early in the 20th century, spread quickly during the 1950s and 1960s, and continues to evolve. Touching fashion, music, literature, films, jargon, and more, its basis is the love of surfing, the hunt for great waves, the desire for the ultimate ride, and life in and around the ocean. Localism or territorialism is often a large part of surf culture in which individuals or groups of surfers designate certain key surfing spots as their own. Surfers, who come from many walks of life, are generally bound by an intense love of the sport.
Advertising would be the next major boost for surfing. A man named Dale Velzy is credited for the popularisation of surfing. Velzy was surfing's first sponsor, giving boards to local surfers in exchange for endorsements. Velzy was also the first major surfboard manufacturer to utilize a wide-scale advertising campaign. Velzy made surfing visible to the American public.
Next would come 'the surf movie'. With the late '50s introduction of the beach movie phenomenon (Gidget, Beach Blanket Bingo, Ride the Wild Surf) and later The Endless Summer, the world at large took immediate notice of our pursuit, rocketing surf culture to the top of their exploitation agenda and crowding the lineups with legions of followers. Though surfers in these Malibu-centric flicks were generally portrayed by Hollywood ho-dads a la Fabian and Frankie Avalon, the films nonetheless offered a small albeit grit-free glimpse into our lifestyle, and, from clothing to lingo to music, people really liked what they saw.
These surf movies ignited an explosion of interest. These movies truly opened America's eyes to surfing as a pastime. As a result the nation was hooked. Through these movies began a surf culture, which would sweep America. Music, fashion, and the English language were all impacted.
Hawaii Surfing
Within months, an uptight America still reeling from World War II and the Cold War was letting down their proverbial hair, buying bikinis, migrating beachward for some carefree sand time and hip-shaking to Jan and Dean. Madison Avenue was quickly in on the act and made surfers the new James Deans, waterlogged rebels with muscular bodies and a penchant for putting fun forever before business.
The fickle nature of weather and the ocean, plus the great desire for the best possible types of waves for surfing, make surfers slaves to rapidly changing conditions. Surfer Magazine, founded in the 1960s when surfing had gained popularity with teenagers, used to say that if they were hard at work and someone yelled "Surf's up!" the office would suddenly be empty. Also, since surfing has a restricted geographical necessity (i.e. the coast), the culture of beach life often influenced surfers and vice versa. Aspects of 1960s surf culture in Southern California, where it was first popularized, include the woodie, bikinis and other beach wear, such as boardshorts or baggies, and surf music.
Expressions like "Hang Ten" and "Surf's Up" could be overheard in trendy Manhattan lounges and fashion rags embraced the surfer style -- tanned and sun-bleached. Things went even more ballistic when, in 1966, director Bruce Brown released the milestone Endless Summer, a documentary detailing the global surfari of two young surfers, Mike Hynson and Robert August. A crossover hit, the film's physical impact, both here and abroad, was massive and immediate. Lured by the romance and perpetual adolescence the lifestyle promised in Endless, vals, jocks and otherwise golfers migrated to the coast to go carefree and chase scantily clad ladies. Once empty surf spots clogged up with newcomers. The world turned its eye to California as much to emulate a casual dress style (barefoot and shirtless) as to appropriate the surfer modus operandi of living in the moment and looking no further ahead than the next low tide or bonfire bash.
Surfing would not be immune to the dark days of Vietnam, and in the late '60s, after a long period of quality public image, the pursuit ducked alongside rock and roll into the counter-culture. Hair grew out and acid was dropped as fashion plates turned elsewhere for inspiration. Ironically, our darkest days in the national eye, when we were seen as drug-smugglers and continental drifters, were among the most progressive in terms of actual waveriding and shaping.
As the surf craze continued the most profound change could be found in the boards, which by the end of the 1960's had reduced in size form 10 feet to 6 feet. This would become known as the 'shortboard revolution', and was one of the first innovations brought about by the Aussie's. Shorter boards accompanied a commercialisation of surfing, which went from an underground obsession to a mainstream cultural influence.
Surf culture sprouted clothing brands and an entire subsection of the media. This began with John Severson's book of photos, 'The Surfer'. Slowly his garage-built book developed into a full-scale magazine called 'Surfer'. This would be the first of many surf publications throughout the world.
The '70s saw professional surfing and pro surfers such as Mark Richards, Wayne Bartholomew and Gerry Lopez again flirt with the mainstream. Contests in Hawaii ran on NBC and the Lighting Bolt struck thigh high corduroys everywhere, but it would be nearly a decade later that surfing would fully penetrate the national psyche again as it had in the late '50s and early '60s.
By the late 1970's surfing had a new centre, Australia. Aussie surfers brought a brash and bold attitude to the sport. The colourful style of Australian surfing found its way into new surf-based companies.
By midway through the Reagan-era, surfing was huge business. Firmly entrenched into the surf market, clothing companies such as Quiksilver, Gotcha and Stussy made a mega-impact on high fashion world as shops struggled to keep their shelves stocked with neon clam-diggers, splatter-print tank tops and shocking pink boardshorts with puffy paint. Pros like Tom Curren, Martin Potter and Tom Carroll secured mega-endorsement deals as the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) reached an all-time high in TV coverage, prize money and global exposure. Bodyboards brought millions more to the sea and overcrowding became the pressing issue it remains today.
"Surf bars" with board-shaped tables opened in Manhattan and cartoon soda-pop characters rode animated waves of cola. Hollywood came out in 1982 with the val-culture epic Fast Times at Ridgemont High, in which a young Sean Penn played a bong-burnt, Vans-o-phile surfer in search of "tasty waves." "Dude," "gnarly," "radical" and "bitchin" were were now added to the surfin vocabulary of thousands of teenagers.
Going on in time, surfing has now become a lucrative profession... big money and many fans. Surf culture has invaded all aspects of life. Surfing is no longer only a sport or a lifestyle; it has developed into an industry, and a staple of our culture.
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Surfing Quotes & One Liners
The ocean is a force of nature that refuses any effort to tame it. To throw one's self on the mercy of this beast is a courageous act.
The ocean is a fickle mistress. Sometimes, it makes you look awesome, and sometimes, it makes you look foolish.
"California Surfin Slang"
Soak up the sun
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Ride the Tide
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Catch the curl
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Think inside the sandbox
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A shore thing
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Called to surf
Aloha!, Beach Babe
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Surfer dude
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Off the wall
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Rad
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Totally
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To the max
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Buff
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Newport Tube Riders
Featuring Music by KennyandtheSkull
Santa Ana offshore winds holding up the wave faces for "Newport Tube Riders". Featuring an original instrumental by Kenny and the Skull.
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"Surf Humor - Surfer One Liners"
“Things You Always Wanted to Say to Another Surfer"
Thanks for wasting another wave. . . how many is that?
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Could you park in front of me on the next wave, too?
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Yes, stay right there. I’m gonna’ run over your butt on the next wave.
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If you want to go home now, no one will complain.
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OK, you surf better than I do, but do you have to make it so obvious?
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Its generally a good idea to look in front of you when you’re surfing.
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Yes, you got 500 waves with your big board. . . now maybe you should try a turn or something.
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You know, its not really fair that you weigh 30 pounds less than me.
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Man you look goofy in that hood. . . Uh oh, I’m wearing one too.
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What were you thinking when you bought a board with five fins?
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Behind this fixed smile I’m tearing your head off for dropping in on me.
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Nothing personal, but surfing is not the sport for you.
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I’m proud of myself for not laughing, that has a hilarious wipe out.
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I saw you kook-out on that last wave— I’m just pretending like I didn’t see it out of courtesy.
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You can’t surf that well, you’re too young.
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Gee you’re old. . . I don’t look like that, do I?
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Please shut up, you’re getting on everyone’s nerves
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Oh goody! One more story about your last surfing vacation.
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I want to send my condolences to your wife. Every woman makes a mistake now and then.
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Get a larger towel-- I never want to see your shiny butt again.
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So you’re slim and good looking and surf well and drive a BMW. That girl with you doesn’t know what’s she’s missing.
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Why can’t I do that?
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Editor's note: OK, so this one was a bit sarcastic but we couldn't resist. Remember that civility starts with resisting the temptation to vent at your colleagues in the line up. Forgiveness buys Karma Points. End of sermon.
"The Lane" - February 2008 features the original surf tune "Jettylands" by KennyandtheSkull.
On February 9th 2008 Steamer Lane, Santa Cruz, CA went off with double overhead surf. All month "The Lane" and all the best NorCal surf spots were getting great waves from storms in the North Pacific.
"Spouse Scripts"
Are you really going surfing again this Saturday?
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I don’t understand it; the new board looks just like your other ones.
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Why don’t you take the kids (your neighbor, cousin, dog, nephew, niece) to the beach with you?
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Are you really going surfing in the rain?
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What time are you going to be home?
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Is the surf really better there?
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You haven’t forgot about the party (church, dinner, project)?
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Do you really get any exercise? Most of the surfers seem to just sit there.
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How can you be tired? You were only out for three hours!
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I guess the yard (garage, sink, dishwasher, etc.) will have to wait for next week.
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But the other wetsuit is only a year old!
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Wave of the Day
Dude in the crowd says "Wave of the Day". La Jolla Cove 12-5-2007, one of the bigger waves this day.
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"Yo' Mamma Lines - Surfin Style"
Yo’ cutbacks are so lame, it take 10 minutes to change direction.
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Yo’ bottom turns are so sad, the wave takes a break for you to catch up.
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Yo’ style so sad, people call 9-1-1 when you paddle out.
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Yo’ surfing so ugly, the sharks draw straws.
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Yo’ surfing so bad, Dr. Kevorkian sends you discount coupons.
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Yo’ surfing crew is so disrespected, the police declare an unlawful assembly.
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Yo’ head so big you use an oil drum for a helmet.
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Yo’ surfing so bad you should claim the 5th and be silent.
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Yo’ turns are so sad, everyone think youse still goin straight!
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Yo’ ride was so bad, someone should run you over and put you out of yo’ misery.
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Yo’ paddling is so weak, yo’ fiends paddle in and shower before make it to the line up.
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Yo’ chest so skinny you use saran wrap for a wetsuit.
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Yo’ so out of shape they strap an oxygen battle to yo’ board.
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Yo’ wipeouts so bad, the funeral home park their hearse in the lot.
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Yo’ so old you need a walker to get to the beach.
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Yo’ so fat yo’ board cries uncle when you catch a wave.
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Yo’ turns so ugly, even the sharks smile.
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Yo’ leash is so old and stretched you can use it for dental floss.
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Yo’ board is so bad dogs think it’s a fire hydrant and stand in line.
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Yo’ board has been repaired so many times, it weighs more than a two person kayak.
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Yo’ board has so much duck tape it looks like a floating AirStream.
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Ugly, ugly, ugly! Yo’ stick so nasty, you couldn’t sell it with a negative price tag.
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Yo’ board so rough you need a sign: “speed bumps ahead.â€
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Yo’ board is so nasty OSHA takes water samples when you surf.
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Yo’ board so long you need a Class B driver’s license and it beeps when you back up.
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Yo’ board so long the nose reaches the line up and the tail is still on the beach.
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Yo’ board so long you have to blow a horn before making a turn.
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Yo’ board so big you need a chart to plan your next turn.
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BIG SURF {December 5, 2007} La Jolla Reefs & La Jolla Cove
La Jolla Reefs and La Jolla Cove were firing.
Yo’ board so long you need a limo to get it to the beach.
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Keep yo’ eyes on the sky, bro’, yo’ board so long Navy jets try to land on its deck.
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Yo’ board so long they made it in sections.
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Yo’ board so fat the shop took a vacation while it dried.
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Yo’ board so long boats try to dock when you paddle out.
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Must be El Nino, yo’ board so long the City wants to use it as a sea wall.
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Yo’ board so big you need a tug boat to turn it.
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Yo’ board so fat they used a 2X4 for a stringer.
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Yo’ board so big even the waves don’t want to hit it.
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Yo’ board so long, the Sierra Club thinks whale migration has started.
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You don’t have to worry about getting sick, yo’ wetsuit so nasty the bacteria are afraid.
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Yo’ board so short you should put the lease on the nose.
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Yo’ board so small you could hide it with your car keys.
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Yo’ board so short all we see is yo’ head stickin out of the water.
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You don’t need no leash, that board so small you can use a key chain.
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Yo’ board is so small, the seals play Frisbee with it.
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Yo’ board so short you can only stand one foot at a time.
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Yo’ board so skinny you can pick yo’ teeth with it.
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Yo’ board so small the shaper used a Styrofoam cooler instead of a blank.
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When you go to Hawaii, yo’ board so short the airline lets you take it as carry on.
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Yo’ board so short you need a snorkel when you paddle.
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Yo’ board so short there ain’t no place to put a decal.
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Yo’ board so short no one can tell which end is the front.
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"MAUI: BIG WAVE SURFING"
Big wave riders surf 40-60 foot waves that break off the North Shore of Peahi, Maui, Hawaii.
"Surfers' Famous Last Word"
Don't worry, those are just dolphins! (thanks, Mike)
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Hey, watch this!
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What's the worst that could happen?
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Mine! . . . I got it!
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It doesn't look that big.
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Don't sweat it, there's a channel!
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Outside! Outside! Outside!
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It's a little big for a beginner, but you'll do fine!
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You catch this one, I'll be right behind you. *
I'm going to paddle out by myself, I'll see you when you get here.
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Relax, those rocks are a long ways away.
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Bring the boat back in about three hours, that should be enough time.
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I like a short board in big surf.
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Pretty good, huh? I repaired this board myself!
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So this is how tow in surfing is done!
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Let's both go, this wave is big enough for two people!
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We're from New Jersey, can you tell us where Maverick's is?
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We're from the mainland, can you tell us where Pipleline is?
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No hay problema! This fisherman knows these reefs like the back of his hand!
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Come on, Air Venezuela has been around for a long time.
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Chicken! The Boeing 707 has a great safety record.
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I love the food from vendors on the beach. . . its so natural.
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That three-hour workout at the gym was just a warm up for this session.
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Let's see who can hold their breath the longest!
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That's too small, I'm heading North.
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There are no poisonous fish in Tahiti!
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Antibiotics are for wimps!
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I'm a traditionalist, leashes are for wimps.
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Helmets are for wimps!
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You mean you replace your leash every year?
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Don't worry about me, I'll warm up soon enough.
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Check this out, I'm gonna' take off fins first!
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OK, let me show you how a 360 is really done.
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Let me have this wave, would you? My girlfriend is watching from the beach.
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Hey, I can compete with the pros.
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Looks like the swell has really calmed down.
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I checked the internet, the swell isn't supposed to hit until late afternoon.
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Surfing at night is the ultimate rush! *
Let's see who can shoot the pier first!
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Relax, Amigo. There are no terrorists on this island. Besides, who would bother a surfer?
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I got a great deal on a rental car!
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It's safe to sleep in the beach; just like the old days.
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Who says a VW van can't go fast down hills?
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Damn, these island roads are narrow!
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The beach is just another 100 yards down this steep trail.
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The water is plenty deep here.
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Hold my board why I jump, would you?
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He's a wimp. I'm gonna' call his bluff.
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That's just an old wives' tale about the currents here.
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I thought the book said the tides were incoming, not outgoing.
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They don't give those young troops bullets for their guns.
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Ignore those stupid signs, the City puts them up every time it rains. They do it so they won't get sued.
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Editor's note: The sad truth is that there's usually a clue before it happens. Surf safe.
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"Why You’re Late Coming Home"
I couldn’t believe how many people it took to drag that poor beached wale back out to sea.
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Can you believe how much I paid for this waterproof watch and then it leaks?
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Whoa, I’m tired. It was tough saving that guy and doing CPR, but the paramedics think he’s going to be OK.
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I tried to make it on time, but the interviews took longer than expected.
"Before Paddling Out"
Please don’t let the reporters know I’m here. I hate when they follow me around.
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Is that Matt Ambrose? I’ve gotta' move North, he’s always bugging me for advice.
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If I don’t come back, you can have my dog.
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Alert the media, I’ll be at the Pier. *
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"When Going for the Impossible Wave"
Hey, watch this!
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Banzai!
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If I don’t make it, you can have my lawn mower!
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Why am I doing this?
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"After a Great Wipeout"
Damn, I hate it when the seals grab your leash.
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You didn’t see that did you?
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Please help me kill the witnesses.
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Is it your first day too?
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Did I at least get a 10 for artistic expression?
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I knew I shouldn’t have had group sex last night.
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I guess the Surf Police are going to suspend my license again.
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Other than that, how did you like the play, Mrs. Lincoln?
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"After a Good Wave"
Now that I’ve shown you how, its your turn.
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Please, no autographs in the line up.
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Must of fired some 20 year old neurons.
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Do you suppose I’ll be able to do that again in my lifetime?
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What happened there?
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Sure glad I had my Viagra last night.
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If someone got my picture, I’m quitting surfing while I’m ahead.
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"When the Surf is Horrible"
At least it’s miserable and cold.
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We’ve surfed uglier, haven’t we?
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I’m glad there’s another masochist out here.
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Let me ask you. . . Why?
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Is there a reason we’re out here?
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This is desperation surfing.
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This is either exercise or an exercise in futility.
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Is it still considered surfing when you don’t catch any waves?
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You know, golf sounds pretty good right now.
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Let’s drive up and down the coast and wave at the girls (boys).
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I left a wife and a warm bed for this?
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Just shoot me and get it over with.
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I’m sure it will get a lot worse when the tide changes.
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If we could just have a few more knots of wind.
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Not much to work with, huh?
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"When You Drop in On Your Bro’"
Sorry, I thought you were going left- right point breaks only
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Sorry, I thought you were going right- left point breaks only (thanks to reader Havard)
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Gee, I didn’t see you.
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If you can’t drop in on your friends, who can you drop in on?
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That’s a payback for 1992 when you dropped in on me.
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Do you still love me?
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OK, next one is yours.
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Did you like my bottom turn? Hope I didn't splash you.
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"When You’re Too Tired To Continue"
I can’t feel my feet any more.
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Would you tow me into the beach?
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Nap time.
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Is there a local bus that comes by here?
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Bali Surf
Bali has a great host of different surf spots. There's Uluwatu, Padang Padang, Impossibles, Dreamland, Balangan, Green Ball, Medewi and so many other accessible great waves. The people are amazing and locals rip. If you can get yourself there it's totally worth painful flight from the states. You'll come out with whole different perspective on life. You might even learn a few things too. Filmed by Jay Karpinski and Edited by Olliegrind
Support our Sponsor
http://www.dwskatesurf.com
More Videos at:
http://www.olliegrind.com
"What to Say to Groms"Guess its time for me to go back to the nursing home.
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We’re you born on that surfboard?
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Be kind to your elders.
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Yes, but I pay property taxes.
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Do you want to live to be 13?
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Yeah, we old guys are having a bingo party later on.
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We’re thinking about putting in a wheel chair ramp to the beach.
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Hell, I was surfing here before you were a nasty suggestion.
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"Dissin’ Short Boarders"
Why don’t you get a real surfboard?
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Having fun trying to paddle into these waves?
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How about adding a foot to that board?
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Pretending to be 16 again?
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I figure the sharks will go for the people who sit lowest in the line-up.
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"Dissin’ Long Boarders"
Why don’t you get a real surfboard?
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Having fun trying to paddle out with that monster?
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Do you know that the size of your board is inversely proportional to the length of (fill in the blank)?
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Do you have a Class B license for that thing?
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How many trees gave their lives for that thing?
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Do you need help carrying that monster back to the parking lot?
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Will that thing fit into a U-Haul truck?
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I thought the 60’s were in the 60’s.
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Is that a Buick or a Cadillac?
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Bet that’s great for fishing.
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Does it come with oars?
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Do you have radar and GPS for that board?
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"Beginners Hanging Out on the Inside"
Speed bumps
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House plants
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Door stops
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Flotsam or Jetsam
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I feel like I’m in a pinball machine
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Must be good; 2,000 people can’t be wrong
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Heads up or heads off, pal
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What is this, a slalom course?
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"Surf Humor - Surfer One Liners" from online site @ Surf Humor
"How can you ever forget? Your entire body quivers as you stare transfixed while you hold your breath. Your pulse increases and you begin to sweat. It happens every time. It's a feeling like no other knows... a personal thing that happens for that moment in time when you get your first glimpse to see it peeling over the reef leaving a white trail. Nothing else really matters. It's just you and the waves, and it takes forever it seems to get there. Ah, but, that feeling lasts a lifetime."
Paul Strauch
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"Life is a wave. Y
