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IT'S hip, it's hot, and it's here. Until the Four Food Studio and Cocktail Salon opened in Melville in December, Long Islanders in search of a spot this sleekThe excitement at Four begins outside. Patrons see a driveway lighted like a runway that leads to the entrance and the waiting valets. The foyer also makes a statement with long cylindrical glass vases holding orchids immersed in water.The "four" in the restaurant's name refers to the seasons, each celebrated in its own area. The lounge, in lime and other shades of green, says spring, while the nearby bar, with a giant video projection screen, evokes summer. The main dining area is autumn and ends in a separate winter-white oval igloo room with a centerpiece fireplace.The fireplace holds a video of a roaring fire, a bit of nostalgia for those who grew up watching Channel 11's annual yule log. Outside the windows are screens showing appropriate scenes: falling leaves for autumn, lush foliage for summer.The restaurant is stunning but is not for everyone. Diners in their 30's were ecstatic. "What a fantastic place," one said. "We're going to get a group together and come back soon."The amazing thing about Four is that amid that excitement it provides food and service that are far above par. The staff wears black pants and T-shirts with whimsical logos like "well done," "prime" and "roasted." The women may sport "delicious" or "spicy," while one muscular fellow had "full bodied" across his chest. The crew was not just a bunch of pretty faces; we had terrific, on-the-ball service.