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PAPA NUI

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Often when the surf was breaking he contemplated her words and wondered how a man went about building a good life for himself.He suspected that it consisted neither in being an old stud horse like Johnny Pupali, fun though it was, nor in wasting one's energies on a haole wife the way Florsheim had done. Yet all he knew how to do was lie in the sun, play slack-key and sakura, and teach wahines how to surf. So for the time being that had to be good enough.

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Surfing and WWII

In one of the stranger chapters of surfing's history, it was toward the end of the Second World War that surfboards were seriously considered for use as an instrument to advance military objectives. A...
Posted by on Tue, 08 Jul 2008 10:42:00 GMT