Reading good writing, writing something good for reading, putting together photos with words to tell a tale of adventure to inspire others to explore the world, skateboarding, hiking barefoot and appreciating the feel of the ground under my toes, pulling into closeout tubes over sand and letting out a yelp of excitement before getting pounded but laughing underwater, cooking, gardening, appreciating a fine belgian ale, stepping off an airplane into the humidity of a foreign place, chasing new experiences...
Me, surfing in the maldives The friends and I, playing with a broken surfboard in Australia
On the beach in New Zealand, in between super fun surfs.Hanging with the Kims at Pupukea for the ONeill Team Challenge Climbing a waterfall in Hawaii:Hawaiian hiking crew: Hanging with the girls on the beach at Haleiwa: The boy and I, paddling out in Baja: Sharing waves in Baja, i'm on the first one, he got the second:Surfing exchange program, Sao Tome, West Africa: My two youngest sisters, Hayla and Helina, and my Dad and I about to go spelunking in a volcanic cave in Nicaragua.
My crew in Florida after hunting alligators:
Cruising in England:
Acai bowls in Brazil:
Hiking barefoot in Brazil:
Nichronic and I in Peru:
Interesting intelligent people with opinions to share and the wisdom to listen.
Pink Floyd, Grateful Dead, The New Pornographers, Damien Rice, Xavier Rudd, Matt Costa, The Beautiful Girls, Tegan and Sarah, The Sounds, Iron and Wine, Kim Mayer and Kyla Langen, "Morning Becomes Eclectic" on NPR.
My friend Kyla:
Burn, Morning of The Earth, Innermost Limits of Pure Fun, Spinal Tap
The Lost Wave: An African Surf Story - GABON STORY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoZvFOip4YQ
check me out surfing in west africa, gabon
I don't have a television. Well, i have the box but not hte service. I've spent so long without having it myself that whenever i'm around it I find myself being really sucked in. I can't just ignore it and carry on whatever coversation is going on. It's very distracting. When watching now, I just trip out on what's on there and how people react to it.
Tom Robbins, Kerouac, Vonnegut, Palahuniuk, Ken Kesey, Aldous Huxley, and anything that gives more insight into the human condition.
Greg Browning. Scott Daley. Legendary surf historian Sam George for his infectious good vibes and endless energy. No one is perfect, but a lot of people have qualities I admire and try to emulate.