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NATALIA GOMENSORO created Metalnat, her jewelry design brand, in 1994 in Uruguay after hearing herself say "I can't find any jewelry that I'd like to wear". She went from that first phrase to her first ring in a very short time. She learned the silversmith technique from several Latin American masters, and added her design and architecture background to forge unique pieces that were quickly in high demand. A few years, awards and shows later Gomensoro lives and works in New York City.
Gomensoro’s educational background in architecture is reflected in her jewelry, which is characterized by a keen understanding of spatial relationships. The artist seems to consider everyday objects and experiences with an inquiring and reflective mind. When you see her jewelry, you realize that her observations open a door to a whole new world of possibilities. She is drawn to the concept of movement and transformation, and likes the idea that nothing ever stays the same. This is reflected on the varying nature of her pieces -a necklace can become a bracelet, an earring can become a ring- and on their interactive relationship with the person wearing them: many of the pieces have mobile parts.

Her work has been described as 'industrial jewelry' and 'small sculptures'. Her inspiration comes from the colors and geometrical shapes that the artist sees around her: in nature in general and the sea in particular, in city skylines and buildings, as well as in art history and ethnic styles. Thus, like architectural landmarks in a city, the work of the artist captures attention. Each piece is built as a small sculpture and is intended to engage the body as a stage for its display.

In her pieces, a variety of materials - silver, gold, glass, stainless steel, magnets, coral, plastic- are combined in unprecedented ways. The shapes are usually geometrical and quite severe, although the artist sometimes incorporates free forms, such as colored stones, breaking up the severity. There is a primordial nature in her work conveyed by the matt finish, texture and color combinations.

The central theme of the artist’s work deals with the 'plain and simple' in design. This concept is achieved by reducing design to the most essential and by doing without any unnecessary ornamentation in order to develop an individual aesthetic concept. What is most attractive about this plain and simple style is its apparent contradiction: the simplification of shapes and the use of elementary and linear forms allow for a surprising diversity of configurations and structures, achieved by varying degrees of details and contrasts. This leads to a visual tension as well as an incredible liveliness.

Gomensoro’s materials and working processes are guided by order, balance, and a modernist influence. There is a great respect for clean lines and a good deal of honesty in the use of materials. Evidently, the design concept is of much greater importance to the artist than the intrinsic value of the components. And although the pieces have many visual references to mechanical production, each one is produced entirely by hand.

Gomesoro’s work argues that we still succumb to the old habit of wearing ornaments around the neck, the wrist, the finger: ornaments that function as hints of our daily expectations, but that there is little in traditional jewelry that fits the brief. The artist’s work consists of collections of contemporary decorative jewelry, and her designs are best appreciated in their final support, the body. It is there where they assume the ideal proportion for which they were created.

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Posted by on Wed, 08 Apr 2009 12:51:00 GMT